There are two ways to maximize security: to maintain either a high or a low profile. Both are far from perfect, nevertheless. High profile means exhibition of fire power. Low profile is to attempt to attain invisibility and also to present yourself as an open, vulnerable, therefore a non-threatening presence.
If you travel with armed accompaniment and hard skin vehicle, for example, with ISAF convoys that exhibit high profile, everybody with a chip on his shoulder will know who to shoot at. The better option, imo, is to keep a low profile. This was practiced with unusual success by the then-unarmed field staff of our private security company which provided security advice to the UNAMA in 2004:
Immediately buy common Afghan clothes, change your clothes according to the region you travel if customs require so (it’s inexpensive goods, anyhow) and – grow a beard and mustaches. The aim, obviously, is to look Afghan. In one word, make yourself imperceptible, travel just like everyone else travels, move in the same manner, and do not open our mouth – let your translator do the talking.
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high profile, ‘think twice before attacking’
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low profile, ‘Who? Me? Nooo… ‘
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Watch out, not so well masked foreigner
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extremely low profile. Prize question: ‘Which one is the man in the picture?’ Although this strategy has been practiced in critical situations by Afghans and foreigners alike, let’s not exaggerate…
Because of the (in)security pressure, you might feel a bit disoriented and as if in the middle of a war zone upon arrival. No wonder – you will be n a middle of a war zone, although it won’t always seem so. Incidents happen on beautiful sunny days when everything seems to be in God-blessed order, basking in loving peace. Still, the stress from being continually under threat stabilizes in time – one gets used to it to a point where it stops interfering with normalcy. Give yourself three weeks and you’ll feel at home. Do not make any rush or critical decisions within these first three weeks.
The North is safer than the south of the country, but do not think it is really safe, it’s only less probable to have an incident. There are regional and provincial offices of the UN and various international development companies and NGOs throughout the country. Feel free to drop by for a visit, they’d love to see a new face, but don’t expect them to be capable of offering you accommodation – it is often against their regulations. They may be able to assist you and offer you at least Internet access, company, beer and field information.
It’s good to learn everything possible about security procedures: what to do, who to call (I hope you’ll have a satellite telephone, but do not rely on it – it’s generally useless, no signal), etc. Most of the country has mobile network coverage, so buy yourself a local SIM card. A first aid kit and knowledge how to use it is a good precaution.
There is no way to avoid landmines and IEDs (Improvised Explosive Devices – IEDs) on the road. Don’t stray away from the road into the desert unless you are sure that there are no mine fields there, or deminers have demarcated the field as clean. But mines are planted again on the roads. You’d have to simply accept this philosophically and try to get some sleep while you travel. But stay alert and ready.
The Taliban usually ride motorbikes. If bikers follow you, it’s time to panic (although there is practically nothing you can do but try to escape in such case). If you cannot get away, surrender and do what you are requested. I won’t get into details here, it sounds a bit morbid. Do what is necessary to survive.
- Talibs on a motorbike -
After the translator, the second issue you’d need to decide upon is the means of travel: either a local taxi or a rented car.
A taxi will take you wherever you want to in the country – for a price. If you rent out a car, see that your translator can drive. In a country without much traffic police, a driver’s license is redundant, but a true art of driving is not – the roads are deteriorated, going across vertiginous curves and cliffs, there are no recognizable traffic regulations and traffic accidents are the second cause of death in the country.
– and then….
If you are renting a car, choose the most ordinary type on the market, nothing new, and certainly not technologically perfect or gleaming. If possible, something old, whitish (the most common colour there), scratched and dusty. This due to security, read further please.
Illustrated transport options:
– not too fast, not too comfortable
– a bit faster, similarly uncomfortable
– medium slow, medium uncomfortable, skilfully spitting
– A bit bulky, rings, raises dust, cheers one up
– taxiiiiii! It drives indeed!
– slightly too perceptible
– ’shoot me’ – rather uncomfortable
– ‘I’m loaded, rob me and abduct me’ – not too desirable
– fast, noisy, falls, good for ground-air missiles
– haughty folks, in convoys, do not let anyone join them
So, in my opinion, the option ‘old, dusty, ordinary’ is the most desirable one. So decide for yourself!
19
Dear Pieter Jan
Unfortunately, I left Belgium last weekend and we did not meet. Our friend Dorian mentioned that you would be travelling to Afghanistan, so I gladly accepted to offer any kind of observation I may have, which would help you enjoy your journey – and even survive it.
I am only partially joking about survival. Security is always the first and the last theme of the everyday work and life there. At this period of time, it is much worse, especially for a foreigner travelling alone.
I’m glad you’ve been to Palestine for three months, so you already have some experience in living and working outside Europe. However, Afghanistan is slightly different, a bit harder – until you get the hang of it.
The first thing you’d need to do is to find yourself a translator (man) wiling to travel with you. The rest of this email will elaborate why the translator is of key value for your journey. Seek a translator from the region where you would be heading:
Dari and Pashto are the two main languages spoken there, but it is not wise to take a Dari-speaker to a Pashtoon area, or vice versa. It is a heterogeneous people, with numerous ethnic groups: Pashtoons, Tadjiks, Uzbeks, Hazaras, Nooristanis, Baloochis, Turkmen, Kuchis, and more. Although nearly entire Afghanistan is Muslim, there are small enclaves of Sikhs, Hindus and Jews.
- Hazara women -
The Kuchis are nomads – fascinating folks. They travel on a north-south route, crossing the borders with Pakistan to the south and Uzbekistan to the north, and are renown smugglers of illegal goods, arms, opium and people.
- Kuchi caravan -
It is said, if you want to disappear, to hide in Afghanistan, join a Kuchi caravan. This concealment/transport service is paid. Although the country also offers other options how to disappear without a trace, unfortunately, most of them are irreversibly unsurvivable.